tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37995792288010896052024-03-08T04:50:21.999-05:00Fevereon PropsProps & costuming by Lee Camarafevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-8926443767585152142012-06-29T21:39:00.000-04:002012-07-10T08:32:13.655-04:00Connor's Tomahawk (build 2.0 ) - Assassin's Creed IIISo, a good while back, I made a replica tomahawk from AC3, and though I was pretty happy with it, I wound up building it before the official announcement came out, and based it on a couple leaked images. <br />
I really wanted to tackle it again<br />
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If interested in the old build. I blogged it up a while back<br />
<a href="http://propsbyfev.blogspot.com/2012/03/ratohnhaketon-connors-tomahawk.html" onclick="_gaq.push(['_trackEvent', 'Outgoing', 'propsbyfev.blogspot.com', '/2012/03/ratohnhaketon-connors-tomahawk.html']);" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Fevereon Props: Ratohnhaké:ton / Connor's Tomahawk - Assassin's Creed III</a><br />
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Though I burned out the first one really fast to hopefully appease the inner fangirl between other work on the table (i think it was around about 15 hours or so, 8 of them due to hellacious beading), I wanted to sit down and put a bit more time into this remake, resize it correctly (the other one was too big for a traditional tomahawk) , and well as try out a different approach to the build <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.therpf.com/images/styles/smilies/biggrin.gif" title="Biggrin" /> <br />
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On to the wips! Please note that on these, you might see a couple different woods on the handle.. that was because I initially planned on just remaking one for myself, but then changed it up because I later decided to mold it. The technique is the same though, <br />
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Of course, first things first! I did the layout using Inkscape, and was much more picky about the shape of the handle. (The first one I pretty much banged out of an old stick of birch using a surform rasp in about a half hour) After doing the layout, and transferring it to the wood, I cut it out, and used the belt sander to shape it to the outline. I followed that up with rasps and files to achieve the desired rounded shape. I took into consideration the fact that the handle would be wrapped, so that area was shaped a little smaller than I normally would have. The diamonds were sketched on as well. <br />
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The axe end (bottom left end) was shaved down more since the photo was taken<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_01.jpg" /><br />
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Once deciding on molding this, I wound up remaking the handle using poplar (softer & faster to shape), then woodburned a woodgrain texture into it to make the wood look more like wood once casting took place (or else it would look like a plain ol' stick)<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_02.jpg" /><br />
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The diamonds were done in the same fashion, please excuse the shift back to the red oak stick, its the only photo I have of the diamonds.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_03.jpg" /><br />
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I had initially started to make the blade out of mdf again, and did the spike on the back first. I later cut this off and used it on the final piece. <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_04.jpg" /><br />
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The rest of the head, I tried out a different approach. Since I have the laser cutter, I thought I'd try cutting the shape out (here I used acrylic). I used the contour of the acrylic to help with alignment and symmetry, sculpted one side out of Super Sculpey, and used a heat gun to cure it (to cut down on warpage that would result should i toss that hunk of acrylic in the oven. though some details I waspicky about when sculpting, I roughed out others since I'd be sandign it down evenly anyways.<br />
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The box was used to help circulate the hot air around the piece for a more even bake (it worked!)<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_05.jpg" /><br />
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When it was hard enough to sand, I got to filing and sanding the half, down to 1000 grit sandpaper. I decided to keep the head fairly thick to keep it sturdy, obviously convention safe, and in case I wanted to try molding this thing on foam as a larp prop. It was designed so you won't notice unless you look at it edge on.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_06.jpg" /><br />
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A groove was cut into the poplar, and the head was slotted in. The pointed end was cut off, ad was replaced by the mdf one, since I thought it turned out well, and there as no point in remaking that AGAIN.. lots of bondo and sanding took place to make the sleeve (?). With more references, I thought I'd try the more angular approach, though I'm not sure if it was designed to be angular, or if it was due to games' polycount<br />
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(oop. just double checked, looks like deliberate design choice)<br />
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Though many spray paints eat Super sculpey over a shrt period of time, I've found that <a href="http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100178922/15-oz-gloss-stainless-steel-aerosol-paint-reviews/reviews.htm" onclick="_gaq.push(['_trackEvent', 'Outgoing', 'reviews.homedepot.com', '/1999/100178922/15-oz-gloss-stainless-steel-aerosol-paint-reviews/reviews.htm']);" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">rustoleum's stainless steel pro paint</a> doesn't, and also dries quickly, and can sand smooth without clogging up sandpaper. (also, tests with 0000 steel wool and buffing with a tshirt can produce really sexy results) <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_07.jpg" /><br />
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Molding time! The last thing i molded (an ac1 short knife) leaked something godawful, so I tried out instead of just little locking channels and some keys, to put a groove around the whole danged thing. Non sulfur based clay, rebound 25, etclalalala. Also boxed it up with some of the tons of convention flyers that i used to horde after events were over to use to mix bondo and epoxies<br />
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(the little bit at the bottom is a sculpt for Connor's buttons, decided that he's on the eventual cosplay list) <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_08.jpg" /><br />
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unclaying the first half. Yay! looks good so far!<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_09.jpg" /><br />
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The other half was molded in Mold Max 30, cuz i ran out of rebound. The shrinkage is very slightly different (the molds wound up shrinking maybe about 1 mm more on the mold max half), but the grooves that were put in to align the halves make the difference between shrinkage rates inconsequential<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_10.jpg" /><br />
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poured the first half, then once it set enough, I tacked some metal reinforcements down with crazy glue<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_11.jpg" /><br />
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close er' up, pour, demold, yay! (also hella happy that i had added that "lip" in addition to the keys and grooves)<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_12.jpg" /><br />
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demolding was fine, very little flashing to deal with, everything aligned right, good to go!. There's a bubble on one side though (oops!), so just plucked it off after demolding. <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_13.jpg" /><br />
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did some refining sanding where needed, and theres a lil' undercut that i was able to easily putty up. (this image was one of the earlier tests that needed a lil more work)<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_14.jpg" /><br />
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The handle was done by making a glove mold in a mailing tube that i cut in half (many dirty jokes were made during the molding process lol), and coated with packing tape on the inside. After demolding and pulling a cast (the mold is slid back into the tube and rubber banded to maintain alignment) , it too barely has seams to deal with. When casting it, I held a metal rod in until it set to reinforce the handle and provide a means of sturdily attaching the handle Here's photo of one after doing a test spray <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk2_15.jpg" /><br />
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<b>I didn't document the painting process this time around, so I'm just copying and pasting the painting part of the previous build.</b> The main difference is that I had gone back afterwards and drybrushed the blade to give it a more weathered and worn feel, and of course, the head was shaped differently!<br />
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After masking the handle, I laid down a couple coats of Krylon Satin black. <br />
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<a href="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_11.jpg" rel="lightbox" title=""><img border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_11.jpg" width="650" /></a><br />
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When it was reasonably dry, but not FULLY dry (a quick tap with a finger doesn't stick), I rubbed aluminum metallic powder onto the surface to give it a more worn metal look. I've been using powders from <a href="http://www.glandmp.com/" target="blank">www.glandmp.com </a> <br />
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<a href="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_12.jpg" rel="lightbox" title=""><img border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_12.jpg" width="650" /></a><br />
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After going through tons of different clear sealers, looking for one that doesn't completely dull out silver (or turn it grey), I found Testors Metallizer sealer (item 1459) actually works, with minimal dulling. Its a pain to get though, comes in tiny bottles, and isn't cheap around me unfortunately. I *do* like it though. An alternative is future floor polish. <br />
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<a href="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_13.jpg" rel="lightbox" title=""><img border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_13.jpg" width="650" /></a><br />
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The handle was wrapped in deerskin, leather straps, beads and cording at the base of the handle was done, and lots of drybrushing was done to weather the piece.<br />
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I also thought it would be neat to gouge the head up a little bit as well (this was done before painting though)<br />
Here's the finished project! (sorry for the poor quality photos, good camera went AWOL :\ )<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/tomahawkweathered.jpg" /><br />
Looking forward to the rest of the costumefevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-44702729724489565962012-05-05T10:38:00.002-04:002012-05-05T10:38:13.493-04:00Team Fortress 2- ScattergunNever played Team Fortress 2 (and still haven't) but I was commissioned to make some of the various props for the engineer class, and the scattergun for the scout class. While researching the designs, I already saw that this was going to be a fun project.. the game's sense of humor was awesome, and the weapons are big and cartoonish <br>
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This was made during a 1 1/2 month propbuilding blitz, (when I was also making 4 orher props at the same time), so please excuse the lack of photos!.
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The barrels were made from pvc tubing, and the drum is from a plastic can that silicone came in (it happened to be the perfect size. The threading at the top (and the bottom!) were cut off
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_01.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_01.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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pieces of plywood were tacked together, shaped into disks, and holes were laid out for the barrels to fit through.
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After one of the disks were seperated an set aside, holes were drilled into the other two that were still together. After those were drilled out and refined, they were slid onto the tubes (second one spaced apart to add stability), and the holeless disk was later glued into the back end (I'd highly reccomend doing this *after* attaching the stock.. it would have save me some of the trouble!) <BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_03.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_03.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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The gunsights were made using a 1/4" thick strip of poplar & scraps.
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_04.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_04.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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...and the sight bits added
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_05.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_05.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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Here's the trigger & pump handle setup. If i had a compression spring on hand I would have used that for the trigger instead of of the curved spring! The pump handle is machined aluminum, because it would break if a scout got too excited.<br> be sure that the spring is is nice & strong, so the pump handle will return to the proper position!
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_06.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_06.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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A quick test of the mech once it's enclosed! I removed the pump handle spring to make sure its range of motion was right.
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_07.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_07.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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Now for the stock on the bottom! This was built from pine. Notice the big blazing gap on the bottom there.. that's what the tape and he greenpost it came in. The post it was folded in half to make it easier to fit between the barrels, then taped down. Bondo was then smeared into the gap.
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_08.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_08.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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Once the bondo began to set, a chisel was used to cut off the excess. The bottom stock was removed (easily since it wasn't adhered to the barrels to begin with!) then refined.
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_09.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_09.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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aaand heres the aforementioned photo gap! <br> the rest of this was pretty much assembly and painting.
<BR><A HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_done_02.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><IMG SRC="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/tf2_scattergun/scattergun_done_02.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A>
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<BR>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-70329992149027569482012-03-26T17:44:00.001-04:002012-05-20T14:55:20.153-04:00Ratohnhaké:ton / Connor's Tomahawk - Assassin's Creed IIIBut I doubt I'll have time this year to do a full costume like I usually do, but thought the tomahawk would be a quick & fun project to take on<br />
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At the time of making this, references were pretty scarce. A few leaked images before the official release of the ACIII trailer were floating around, and I based mine mostly on this one<br />
<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_ref.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_ref.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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The first step was to make the handle, I had an old walking stick laying around, so I cut it down, and shaved it to the shape and thickness I wanted. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_01.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_01.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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The stick was stained, then sealed. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_02.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_02.jpg" BORDER="0" height="650"></A><br />
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The axe head was made from MDF (medium density fiberboard).The darker areas are where the MDF was slicked with crazy glue. The bit on the dremel is a tngsten carbide grinder, which Is one of my favorite bits. It'll leave thngs rough though!<br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_03.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_03.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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The bevel on the inside was further refined using sandpaper. This was again slicked with crazy glue, and sanded to a smooth finish. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_04.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_04.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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To secure the blade and the point to the handle, I drilled holes though the widest part of the handle and back point. The holes were offset so I could screw both sides on. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_05.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_05.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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.. and there we go.. after screwing the blade in, i unscrewed it a little so I screw the tip on, then rotated the blade back into posistion.<br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_06.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_06.jpg" BORDER="0" height="650"></A><br />
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They were epoxied into place to strengthen it. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_07.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_07.jpg" BORDER="0" height="650"></A><br />
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Time to break out the bondo!<br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_08.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_08.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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bondo bondo sand bondo sand bondo sand<br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_09.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_09.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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* After the build, I wasn't happy with the head shape (wanted to make the AC logo a little more pronounced since finding better references), so a few days later, I went back and modified the axe head. bondo bondo sand bondo sand bondo sand<br />
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I also thought I'd leave the piece a little more rough.<br />
<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_10.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_10.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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After masking the handle, I laid down a couple coats of Krylon Satin black. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_11.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_11.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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When it was reasonably dry, but not FULLY dry (a quick tap with a finger doesn't stick), I rubbed aluminum metallic powder onto the surface to give it a more worn metal look. I've been using powders from <a href=http://www.glandmp.com target=blank>www.glandmp.com </a> <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_12.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_12.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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After going through tons of different clear sealers, looking for one that doesn't completely dull out silver (or turn it grey), I found Testors Metallizer sealer (item 1459) actually works, with minimal dulling. Its a pain to get though, comes in tiny bottles, and isn't cheap around me unfortunately. I *do* like it though. An alternative is future floor polish. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_13.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_13.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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I went back with a little more powder and rubbed it in to give it a pretty chrome looking finish. Surprised it worked as well as it did!<br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_14.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_14.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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Blahhhhh. beading. I quickly discovered that there was a BIG difference between the lower quality and higher quality beads!In addition to the colors being more vibrant and more consistent shape, they were much easier to string. Spent a half dozen hours watching Supernatural and Archer on Netflix while working on it. After each row, I looped the string under the previous and tacked it with crazy glue. Once the beading was done, I added more crazy glue in there, to make sure the beads don't wiggle around or pop off. <br />
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Partway through stringing the things, i discovered that its not a bad idea to slick the first inch or so of the string with crazy glue so it gets stiff an acts like a needle of sorts. when the tip frays or gets bent up, I glued a little further down and snipped off the damaged string. <br />
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<a HREF="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_18.jpg" REL="lightbox" TITLE=""><img src="http://www.fevereon.com/projects/ac3_tomahawk/ac3_tomahawk_18.jpg" BORDER="0" WIDTH="650"></A><br />
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There was leather wrapping, and the tacks (I used halves of chicago screws because I couldn't find the bag of furniture tacks), and snagging some feathers, and done!<br />
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AC Fix. <br />
Check.fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-33722141054752627952012-02-22T10:32:00.000-05:002012-02-22T10:32:41.764-05:00Haseo's guns- .hackThis project was initially started in 2008 as a personal project, but commissions put this on the back burner. It was revived when Cathy of <a href=http://godsavethequeenfashions.com/>godsavethequeenfashions.com </a> needed them for her accompanying Haseo costume commission. <br />
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I initially was going to make two whole guns, but I had since discovered the joys of molding & casting. <br><br><br />
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The "clip" was cut out first , the edges were bevelled using a Dremel. <br />
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The top one has the edges detailed with a file. The bottom still needs it. <br />
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After the bevelling, I glued in the wedges. They were numbered to make sure they were in the right order.<br />
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The little bit on the top and the barrel were also made from poplar.<br />
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I carved most ot the curved grooves with the dremel and a round bit. <br />
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Since it's made of mdf, sanding it leaves it frizzy, and paint wil absorb ito it. I slicked the piece with crazy glue, then sanded the parts. If I saw raw MDF, I slicked a lil' more glue on there. Its good to wear a mask , because the chemical reaction can get pretty hot when the glue soaks in, and can emit strong fumes!<br />
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Here's the finished segment, with a couple coats of primer on it<br />
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There were a few spaces inbetween the parts, which would mean a lot more post work after casting.<br />
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After taping the seams, I caked some bondo in the edges and squished them togather. After giving it time to set, I pulled them apart. The tape let the parts seperate more easily<br />
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Those were sanded even.. success! <br />
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For some silly reason, I made two grips, here's the rough cut before ditching one and focussing on the other (was going to cast it anyways)<br />
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A combination of hand files and a dremel was used to shape the grip, <br />
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And added some bondo to the top to widen it out a bit. They were slicked with more crazy glue, and sanded<br />
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The guards behind the cylinder was built up with MDF and bondo. Since the cylinder needs to stick out on the sides, I made the cylinder, split it, and added a spacer to widen the barrel. It won't spin of course, but it'll look more like the original design. <br />
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Used a bit of plastic to make the barrel tip, it was filled in to make molding easier, and marked so i could drill it out affter casting. <br />
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The parts are all assembled, sanded, and ready for.. <br />
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Primertime!<br />
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Fitting check. these were sanded and buffed to a smooth finish. <br />
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Oh the joy of two part molds! These were my first ever ones! Used non sulfur clay to build it up, adding keys (the bumps to make sure things align later) and channels to avoid bubbles in any undercuts.<br />
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.. then began pouring multiple thin coats of thin silicone.<br />
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After enough coats were done, I flipped it over, cleaned out the clay, coated it with mold release, and began working on the other side.<br />
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I tried out plastipaste to make a shell for support. The halves were rubber banded together after removing the original sculpt. <br />
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Lots of pouring ahead with this project. Need to make 2 sets of these!<br />
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Though I had to cut the molds in a couple places because they were being stubborn, but when it came time to pour, they actually turned out pretty well. There was minimal flashing to sand down, and there weren't any alignment problems. It took a couple attempts to get them right though, because there were quite a few spots where bubbeles could get lodged during the pours. <br />
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Testing tints and powders!<br />
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and casts of gears and smaller bits. <br />
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Each gun consists of 13 parts, and two halves of energy blades that are made from acrylic (not shown in this photo, I forgot to take photos of the wips of those). <br />
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...and here's where I wound up in a building frenzy, and misplaced the camera... <br />
The blades were made from acrylic, two pieces painted on the inside (so I had to lay the colors down in reverse order) , then sandwiched together. <br><br />
A groove was cut into the front of the gun, and the blades were slipped in them and held with a bolt.<br><br><br />
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Here's a couple photos of the finished guns!<br />
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<BR>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-28010125418401196402011-12-05T11:19:00.002-05:002011-12-05T11:34:33.089-05:00Assassin's Creed II- Ezio's gliderFor those who aren't familiar with the thing, the glider I'm working on is Leonardo da Vinci's "flying machine" from Assassin's Creed II. Decided to make this thing because.. well, I wanted to see if I could.<br />
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I had started this in early 2010, but other pressing matters relegated it to a pair of wooden pegs in the basement til this past September, where it (again) resides til I finish off some end of year projects. At this moment, the arm and foot rests need to be made, some corded accents, and a base for it needs finishing. <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider.jpg" /><br />
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The blueprints were (for obvious reasons) rather large, so i just printed the main body and one wing.. I made it 15 feet across (scaled down from the 23 or so I guesstimated ), because the components need to fit in my car.<br />
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Since I don't have an oversized printer, after drawing up the blues, I printed out i think around 60 sheets of 8 1/2x 11s, and spent the day taping the buggers together <a href="http://posterazor.sourceforge.net/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">PosteRazor</a> would have made this easier :p<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider1.jpg" /><br />
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The main body is mdf on one side, and masonite/insulation foam/tagboard on the other. The body was painted with some old thick paint and a cheapo brush that I intentionally let paint dry on<br />
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I've been using 1/8" thick masonite for the top, insulation foam for the core, and the sides are tagboard. Though individually flimsy, when glued together (using hot glue lol) they're actually fairly strong.<br />
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So yeah.. lots and lots and lots of this :p<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider3.jpg" /><br />
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left to right- <br />
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-Masonite board, cut to shape<br />
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-insulation foam, also cut to shape (i later found if i just glued the Masonite to the foam sheet, I could then just use the edge to cut it out faster.) <br />
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- cut out & glued together<br />
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-hot glued the sides on :)<br />
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I found that a quick way to cut the tagboard strips (instead of measuring out every one) was to take a straight edge, and attach some tagboard scrap to the bottom, laid out the width i needed for the edge. I then just slide the sheet under it til it butts into the tagboard glued underneath, and cut away. Think I had to do around 100 or so strips for one size alone :p<br />
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I am concerned with (amongst other things) Torsional strength. (twisting the spines), I'll need to work around that real quick, though I think (and hope) the fabric they will sandwich will help provide additional support. <br />
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Here's the state when it was ditched in July 2010 ^^; Its a lil more beige now from all the dust. <br />
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<div class="title">September 2011</div><br />
Over the last 4 days, I've cut and assembled the other 28 spines that are left. <br />
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Some of them I had doubled up, to provide extra support and give the wings more dimension. <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider7.jpg" /><br />
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Though i had a vague idea of how i was going to connect the part together, I hadn't actually done any blues/ schematics for the connections. Wound up engaged in a lot of snip/glue/ bull****tery here til the parts connected right. The layers alternate between those of the inner and outer wing assemblies, and a peg will be run through the entire lot when done. here's to hoping that its strong enough! *fingercross* <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider8.jpg" /><br />
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Once one side was assembled, I flipped it over and mirrored the other parts by assembling it right on top of the finished one (hope that makes sense!) . It may be a couple mm off from the original blues, but as long as its aligned to the layer that will be attached to the other side, it'll be fine. <br />
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The outer sides of the spines will be covered after the fabric is stretched over them :)<br />
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And here's the current state of one side. I can't easily lay it out fully though, til that side of the basement gets cleared off <br />
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<div class="title">September 25, 2011</div><br />
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After assembling the rest of the pairs of outer wing spines, these were all painted. Again I used the thick old enamel leftovers so I got thick streaks and the like. <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider14.jpg" /><br />
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After it dried, I sprayed the parts with rustoleum brown primer, and did a quick wipe with an old bedsheet.To bring out the texture more, I used some sandpaper.<br />
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Left them all out to dry, it was like having two gliders in the basement with both sides of the wings splayed out in the basement lol<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider12.jpg" /><br />
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Time to start stretching the fabric onto the wings! Since the spines would move around when setting them, I decided to temporarily tack the thing to a large sheet of insulation foam using the hot glue gun. This would keep the spines from moving while i did the fabric. <br />
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Did my best to stretch the fabric on there, and hot glued it all down. You can't bounce a quarter off it, but it'll do. <br />
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The other half was aligned and glued down after some of the trimming was done<br />
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I laid a bead of hot glue around the edges that would remain "raw" to keep it from fraying and stretching too much. Used a scrap piece of silicone to press the bead flat :)<br />
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Here's one of the outer wings almost done! I still need to tagboard the outer edge though<br />
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<div class="title">September 27, 2011</div><br />
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Did a test fitting of the first of the wings yesterday.<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider20.jpg" /><br />
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Then set back to work on the inner section of the wings. I still needed to add more spines, so rather rinse repeat with the glue!<br />
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Foam scraps were tacked onto the spines to stop them from moving around while stretching the fabric<br />
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Added some wood bits to one side, because the spines added would get crushed if the outer wing pushed into them. That did the trick!<br />
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another fitting check,<br />
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and strength check. I also held the thing horizontally to see if the wing will crack and crash/burn, but it held fine, and I heard no telltale squeaking/crunching sounds of a dying joint, so it looks like this will work! <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider25.jpg" /><br />
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The wing weighs about 11 lbs so far (the outer wing is about 5 1/2 lb) .. it'll probably go up to about 13 by the time I add the last segments (I forgot a major piece of it, so I need to go back and add that )<br />
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<div class="title">September 29, 2011</div><br />
And more of the same.. though i'm a lil behind, its coming to its home stretch <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.therpf.com/images/styles/smilies/smile.gif" title="Smile" /> <br />
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I forgot to add a section on the top of the wing, so I put those in. <img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider26.jpg" /><br />
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Quick bodged the footrest, and the hand grips will be added as soon as I finish the bar that connects it to the fuselage<br />
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September 30,2011<br />
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The next step was getting the wings to connect to the fuselage. These segments wre made out of plywood, as they would be taking a massive amount of pressure from the wings. Holes were cut, and the wings (and fabric) were pulled through.<br />
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The fabric was hotglued in place. I snipped the fabric on the inside, so i could evenly glue it down. The <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider29.jpg" /><br />
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The wooden peg is epoxied in place. It actually extends into the wing for added support. This had holes drilled in, and its what connects the wing to the fuselage (along with another peg further down. <br />
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Here's the current state of the glider. It weighs around 30 pounds, which isn't bad for a 15 foot x 7 1/2 foot.. thing. Will update this blog posting when its completed!<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/costuming/glider/glider31.jpg" />fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-69674878187262215422011-02-20T10:04:00.000-05:002011-02-20T10:04:35.221-05:00Dragon Age 2- Hawke's beltHello all, apologies for the lack of updates (again :p), I really prefer to post full start to finish wips here, but lately I've have been making slow progress on about 15 different projects, between making accessories for another costume maker! If you want to see some of these things as they progress (and occasional webstreaming), check out my <a href="http://www.facebook.com/fevereon">facebook page</a> (no fb membership required! )<br />
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Anywhoo, this is a bit of a panic project, as I thought that the convention that this was needed for was at the end of the month, not in 6 days. So the schedule is very messed up, and much coffee was involved!<br />
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For those unfamiliar with the character, Hawke, here's a reference. He's from the upcoming Dragon Age 2 from Bioware.<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/hawke.jpg" /> <br />
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Guyverion is getting the other items from someone else, and I believe he's making the armor bits, tabbard and such<br />
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Here's what he has so far (the belt is of course, going to be replaced by mine)<br />
<a href="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/dan_tabbard.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds...an_tabbard.jpg</a><br />
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Here's a foam mockup I did to get the layout right. I found foam great for patterning because it behaves similarly to the damp leather I'll be using for the belt <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.therpf.com/images/styles/smilies/smile.gif" title="Smile" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="394" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/foam-layout.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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I showed him some really cool looking rings, and he opted for them instead of the plain ones I had snagged earlier. He also gave me artistic liberties, so time willing, i might do a couple textured accents & such. We'll see though, since there's going to be a lot of sewing involved & I'll have to do it by hand, since I don't have a machine that can get through this.<br />
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Here some of the parts have been tooled, and some dyed, and I'm pretty much swapping out things as I go along. <img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/belt-tooling.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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More dyeing done, and preparing things to start sewing! Added texture because i thought it would look nice <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.therpf.com/images/styles/smilies/smile.gif" title="Smile" /><br />
<img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/dyed-bits.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>And the buckle!</b></span><br />
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I rough cut the shape with a dremel <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/buckle1.jpg" /><br />
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forgot to post a photo inbetween here, but I continued wok with the Dremel, and got the shape generally done. Since this was plywood, I coated it with some stuff called "tuf" that Wes from The Engineer Guy gave my fiance when he picked up stuff i purchased. sands smoother & sexier than bondo. Love it<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/buckle2.jpg" /><br />
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sprayed a coat of Rustoleum stainless steel industrial spraypaint on there, because it dries relatively fast, and sands nicely without clogging up sandpaper. <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/buckle3.jpg" /><br />
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Here's the finished buckle, after a lil tweaking. I'm leaving it a bit rough, to retain the feel of Hawke's rough design. This of course, was sprayed again after the sanding, and I applied some silver & black acrylic washes to weather it more. <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/buckle4.jpg" /><br />
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From this point on, things were so hectic that my wonderful fiance pulled a major assist!<br />
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I layed out, cut, tooled dyed the leather, and punched the sewing holes, then gave the parts to him to assist in sewing. I unfortunately don't have a sewing machine, and hand sewing takes a good while. I wound up pulling 3 allnighters, and he pulled one getting this done in time XD<br />
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Here's some of the straps, in various stages of work.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/tooldyestraps.jpg" /><br />
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Here's some up on the stitching pony that he was using. I chose to use a basic stitch that was not only faster, but was more accurate to the references than the saddle stitch that I usually usually use on everything. Most of the stitching done on the belt here was decorative, and though I considered not doing it for times sake, the belt would look kindof plain. <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/stitching.jpg" /><br />
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the pouch was again mocked up with craft foam, then transferred to leather. <br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/pouch1.jpg" /><br />
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Decided to use 3 oz. leather on the side pieces, and 5 oz on the main body. I started the sewing to get the things aligned, and my fiance sewed the rest up and added the clasp <img alt="" border="0" class="inlineimg" src="http://www.therpf.com/images/styles/smilies/smile.gif" title="Smile" /><br />
<img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/pouch2.jpg" width="480" /><br />
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While I was sewing the fur onto the back of the belt (sewing fur onto belt= sloooowwww), my fiance made a faux clasp for the leg strap. Its made from Sintra and Mighty Putty, and painted with a subsequent acrylic wash.<br />
<img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/legclasp.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Here's some photos of the finished belt! There's a strap that my client would hide underneath the tabbard and bolts to the belt to stay hidden (much like a garter belt, but much more manly)<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/1.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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after taking this photo, I decided that the sack of holding was a little low, so I raised it a bit!<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/2.jpg" width="479" /><br />
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Again, I'm really happy he let me deviate from the original design and put these rings in! <br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/3.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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My client is (obviously) much larger than me XD<br />
<img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://fevereon.com/props/propbuilds/hawke_belt/4.jpg" width="480" />fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-586803772570440242010-11-07T20:39:00.000-05:002010-11-07T20:39:15.322-05:00Fall Update smorgasboard (part 1)The hectic Spring/Summer convention season has passed, so its time to play catch up on all the propwork that had to sit on the sidelines while we were bouncing around from convention to convention.Regardles, theres been a lot of materials flying around down in the shop!<br />
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Here's whats been going on over the summer, but hadn't gotten off my butt and posted to the ol' blog (May?? sheesh!)<br />
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<b>Thundercats- Lion-O's sword</b><br />
Tthis has been on the project list for a very lonng time, and I'm getting around to it (finally). <br />
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The eye is a huge xmas ornament, that I cut open and poured resin into. This was the first take on the eye. the white is styrene, that was heat formed over it.<br />
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The recessed textures are being done by using sandpaper (in this case, 3M sandblaster sandpaper), and gluing styrene to it . Found that its a great way to add a nice even texture. These bits are sintra, sandpaper, and styrene. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/omens/omens_10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/omens/omens_10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://fevereon.com/wips/sword-of-omens/8-crossguard-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>Here's the current state of the blade. Next up is the handle, and remaking the claw part of the guards, because i'm not too fond if their shape,<br />
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<b>FFVIII- Squall's gunblade </b><br />
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Though the blues are not done, they're at least readable (for me anyways), so I'll start building off them once a couple of these are out of the way! So many nitpicky giblets on that prop, especially since the bullets will be removable and the rest of the bells & whistles!<br />
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<b>and some Bonus busters...</b><br />
My kid neighbors a fan of games (namely the Final Fantasy variety) so thought it would be fun to show him a bit of propmaking by building a basic buster sword with him. I'm making a second one as well. They're being made from insulation foam, tagboard, sintra, foamcore, and a dowel.<br />
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part 2 coming in a bit!fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-63955217490099981082010-05-23T09:42:00.004-04:002010-05-23T17:50:00.250-04:00LOTR- Boromir's Shield strapsMike of blindsquirrelprops and I are "tag teaming" a set of Boromir's shields from Lord of the Rings. He's working on the shields, and I was to do the leather straps. <br />
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Here's some reference photos. Unfortunately, there weren't a lot of them to work from...<br />
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The first thing I did was make the stamps, since hand tooling the entire thing would be insane. I did the initial sculpt from Super sculpey, then poured resin into it. Since I didn't bake the sculpey, I was able to scrape it it out after the resin set relatively easily and used some paint thinner to clean the tighter crevacises. Though the stamping worked, I realised that I sculpted it in reverse of what i needed. Oops!<br />
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These are the ones I remade, and mounted them onto wood blocks to provide support. Did a test to make sure they were correct!<br />
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Laid the leather, wet, on a table, and used a C clamp to press them onto the leather, since they're too big to beat with a mallet, and i didn't want them to shift. The diamond ones were pressed harder than the others to emboss them deeper <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/boromir/boromir_3.jpg" /></div><br />
Here's one of the straps, with the tooling finished, the edge was embossed with an overstitch wheel to use as a guide when punching the holes.<br />
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painting & dying the straps. First I laid down the black & red, then went over the whole thing with an antiquing gel. Those I got from <a href="http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com" target="_blank">Tandy leather factory</a> the black straps were dyed with an alcohol based dye I tried out, which penetrated the leather nicely. A coat of black gel antique was added over that, and the straps were sprayed with a woter resistant spray. <br />
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The next phase was the pain in the... since I don't own a hand sewing machine they had to be sewn by hand. Since the leathers too thick to just sew through, I had to prepunch the holes with a diamond shaped punch, then use a set of pliers to pull the needles through. I recruited my fiance to help with some of the sewing. It took almost two days of solid work from both of us to get em done. Used a basic saddle stitch, which involves two needles. Here's my fiance toiling away!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/boromir/boromir_6.jpg" /></div><br />
Yay! The sewing on the straps are done, and our hands are sore! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/boromir/boromir_7.jpg" /></div><br />
The next step was adding the bluckles. Mike had welded together 3 of the lil' buggers and sent them to me to rivet. I did a lil' trimming of a couple, drilled holes, and riveted the straps from the underside after gluing them down. Mike's going to have plates engraved to cover the ones he did, since trimming them made them uneven. That'll cover up the holes I had accidently drilled too high as well ^^; <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/boromir/boromir_8.jpg" /></div><br />
Aaand finished straps! I'll be seding these to Mike, and he'll be sewing them to the shield. Have fun with that Mike! (sarcasm!) <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/boromir/boromir_9.jpg" /></div>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-51269905708926962952010-04-15T17:46:00.000-04:002010-04-15T17:46:05.255-04:00TF2 and WoW wips..Working on a bunch of projects in between commissions and such, and these puppies have been slowly making progress. <br />
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<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">TF2- Intel case-</span></b> </div><br />
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Here's a couple of photos of a TF2 intel case that I'm working on. This is for a commission, so it taking priority XD <br />
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Will be adding buttons and faux dials and such. The panel is made of Sintra. <br />
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5 minutes with a router became a full day with rasps & a surform, since I don't have a aforemetioned router :p<br />
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Turning the intel box into an intel case, by cutting it apart with a tablesaw<br />
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<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">WoW- Sister Benedron cosplay</span></div><br />
I never played World of Warcraft, but I saw a figure of Sister Benedron at a comic shop, and loved the design.. large axe & book of smackdown, lots' o' armor, and coincidentally, a white hood, which seems to be a common element in all the personal costumes I've made to date.. (pure coincidence!!)<br />
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Began work on the costume almost immediately after seeing it, though it got put aside when I saw the first images of Ezio from Assassin's Creed II. When Ezio's done, I hope to return to this project.... someday... <br />
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Built the base from cardboard, with a hook to attach it to back armor.<br />
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For the plates, I used Sintra sheets, which i engraved, and kickstomped in the driveway to give it the beaten metal like the figure.<br />
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Used hot glue to add texture in the carved out holes, and cut the excess off so the plates would fit over it easily.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="318" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/wow/wow_wings_3.jpg" width="400" /></div><br />
And some painting to see how they look so far :) <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="276" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/props/wow/wow_wings_4.jpg" width="400" /></div>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-18632519978063065872010-04-06T13:21:00.004-04:002010-04-06T19:58:31.744-04:00Temari's Fan- NarutoI was commissioned to make Temari's fan from the anime series Naruto.<br />
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This was originally going to be a modification of one of those large fans that you can find at asian trinket shops, but I completely didn't trust it to hold up the rigors of cosplaying.<br />
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An 11th hour idea that came to me to use slats from a set of window blinds. <br />
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Since the ones i got were faux wood (plastic), i added some spokes that were wooden molding for support. I stacked them up and drilled a hole through the set of spokes. <br />
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after bolting it, I laid out the curve onto paper. <br />
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I mounted fabric to the front of paper, to give it strength <br />
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The purple dots were added by ironing on pieces of purple fabric with some heat & bond sheets. <br />
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made sure to measure out the spacing carefully, then used a straight edge to fold the fabric.<br />
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After tapering the spokes to ensure that the fan can close, I used double sided adhesive tape to secure the spokes to the fan. <br />
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aand thats about it! One really big fan!<br />
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After taking this photo, I had to let the gal who commissioned know that it would be unwise to open it outside. There was a slight breeze outside, and it was a challenge trying to make sure that the wind didn't take off with it...<br />
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</div>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-38613314393456988982009-12-18T13:52:00.006-05:002010-08-17T20:06:20.769-04:00Assassins Creed 2- Ezio's beltBeen working on a personal project, full cosplay of Assassin's Creed 2, big fan :)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/eziocosplay/eziobeltrefl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/eziocosplay/eziobeltrefs.jpg" width="254" /></a></div><br />
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One of the tougher elements has been the belt.. its not only located in a spot that would mean breakage for the thing unless it was was made from metal, but the design itself just wouldn't work, because the posts on the buckle are facing the wrong way, and even if they were, they'd be a b*** to buckle.<br />
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first of course, was layout.. Drew up the design and made a tagboard and plywood mockup to lay out the belt. Will sculpt the insignia onto the plywood. <br />
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Then began the sculpting. Used super sculpey. I don't remember how long it took because I wsa working on & off between projects.<br />
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I had sculpted and baked the insignia in sections, to help avoid fouling up areas that already sculpted. <br />
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A lot of sanding was done to smooth out imperfections and such.<br />
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After a quick acylic paint test (and subsequent stripping of the paint, which proved tougher to do than i thought), I cast it in Moldmax 30, and poured a plaster support to keep it from losing shape when doing pours.<br />
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After brushing the inside of the mold with aluminum powder, I poured smoothcast 325 into the mold. Here's the result of the cast once it set.<br />
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After sanding the reverse side of the cast to remove the flashing and even it out, I did a "wash" of sorts using spraypaint and a rag. <br />
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theres the finished components. Added bolts to the back of the insignia, to connect it to a backplate shaped by heating 2 layers of Sintra and gluing them together with an epoxy to add strength. It'll protect the insignia when ones bending, as well as provide a base to mount the buckles onto. I cut the roller bars off the buckles, and they're mounted to the plate using framing wire. Added padding so the wire won't jab the wearer in the stomach.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/eziocosplay/insignia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/eziocosplay/insignia.jpg" width="283" /></a></div><br />
The sash is actually fabric wrapped over a piece of vinyl in the approximate shape i wanted. Bunched it up to look as close as i could get to the references. slots and holes were cut into it to add it onto the backplate. Added hook and loop onto the ends of the sash, to make it easier to put on. the seam will be covered by the sash that hangs off the side.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/eziocosplay/belt11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/eziocosplay/belt11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The insigna was then bolted onto the backplate :)<br />
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Time to cut out & test the belt straps! When done with those, the insignia will hold the partial pieces of leather in place., because Ubi didn't' make a design that would actually WORK and theres "magic" involved XD<br />
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Used the cardboard mockup as a pattern for the leatherwork. After hooking the sash around the waist, I buckle the straps in the -back-, since that setup back there actually -does- work based on the references. <br />
The AC logo in the back is purely decorative, since I'll be clipping pouches to the back of the belt once they're completed.<br />
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Since the insignia required a mold, I can make more <a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/shmupo/eziocosplay/insignia.jpg">insignia assemblies</a> if one might be interested. Belt n' sash not included.. Here's some <a href="http://www.fevereon.com/props/acinquiry.php">info and a request form here</a><br />
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Other elements of cosplay gear (left bracer, daggers, paulron clips etc. ) will undergo similar treatment XDfevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-25210410070872241542009-10-29T00:11:00.001-04:002009-11-08T08:58:33.750-05:00Drakengard 2- Caim's SwordI was commissioned to make Caim's sword from Drakengard 2. I was to make the sword based on the older form of this character, where its more worn, quite battledamaged, and there was a color shiift from blue to red :) <br />
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To get the recessed area of the blade, I glued thin panels to the sides...<br />
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...then tapered the sides of the blade as normal. That left a nice clean inner bevel :)<br />
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The "arch" was made from 3 sandwiched segments of wood, with a space to insert the blade.<br />
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I added the center section of plywood, using craft sticks to center the plate. Bondo was added to fill in the gap, and the inner arch was carved in.<br />
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I cut out a slot to accomodate the plywood plate.<br />
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the arch was fitted,and glued to the plate<br />
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The unserside of the hilt was made from 3 layers of wood<br />
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I glued two of the sections together and bored out the center to help keep the sword as light as possible.<br />
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They got connected to the base<br />
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After gluing the bottom piece (which didn't get bored) I added a pair of screws to add additional strength.<br />
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Three sections of wood were glued together to compose the "basket"<br />
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I cut the groves and sended the parts smooth<br />
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.. then glued them onto a scrap piece of wood to shape<br />
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Rough cut them using my bandsaw<br />
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and shaped them into the shape I wanted using files and sanding blocks<br />
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The segments were cut off the scrap block. Here's the segments!<br />
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They got glued onto the actual sword :)<br />
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And here's where I went into a building frenzy and forgot to take photos.. <br />
After squishing bondo between the cracks I scraped at it while it set, and before it cured (its easier to do than carving it when its hard!) to acheive the depth I wanted. The curve in the back was built up using wood and bondo. The grip was also made and connected. Here's the end result after I sanded it and applied wood hardener.<br />
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The pommel was carved using a Dremel, files and sandpaper :) <br />
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After finishing sanding, and a coat of primer, I used a dremel and a hacksaw to add major battledamage!<br />
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sand, detail, and yay!<br />
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</div>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-26301319063185876632009-10-05T17:56:00.004-04:002009-11-08T08:56:38.757-05:00Drizz'ts Swords- Forgotten realmsThis is a pair of swords I had done based on designs by Todd lockwood<br />
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After going over a couple ideas and get feedback on the design for the blade edge (made three rough drafts from insulation foam), I went and began shaping the blade.<br />
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A light held close to the edge of the blade helped show details, and I funetuned the edge with files and sandpaper.<br />
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The elven text was "engraved" by woodburning, since woodburning creates recess in the wood.<br />
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I tried out using bondo to build up the grip, but in the future I'll just go and use wood, it would be less of a pain ^^;<br />
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Here i sprayed a coat of Kilz.. its thick, and can be sanded down really smoothly. between coats of paint I took a needle and scraped out the paint, to make sure it didn't get completely filled in.<br />
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After sanding the blade smooth, I laid down a coat of satin black, which takes aluminum powder nicely<br />
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I then used aluminum powder and rubbed it onto the blade with my finger when it was almost dry (but not too tacky)<br />
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Though there appears to be silver powder stuck in the engraved areas, it was later blown out with a can of compressed air. I left it looking a bit worn, since the character looked to me like he wouldn't be toting fresh out of the blacksmiths shop weapons... <br />
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Now Its on to the grips!. Here's a big pile of strips i cut to wrap the handles with<br />
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I laid down double sided tape onto the handle, and pretty much trial and errored my way into wrapping the handles. I started in the middle, and worked my way out :)<br />
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Think I got lucky when it all interlaced correctly on the other side! <br />
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I found the perfect bits from the scrapbooking section of Michael's to add to the handles. .. <br />
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Drilled holes into these square headed brads, and inserted some zirconias into the holes. They got glued into holes drilled through the handle <br />
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AAnnnd the finished blade!<br />
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</div>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3799579228801089605.post-10666746854344236192009-09-30T17:31:00.007-04:002012-07-08T08:34:51.158-04:00Kingdom hearts- Axel's Chakrams<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">Disclaimer!! This was how I went about making these chakrams. It takes forever, and sucks to be honest! If you could find another way that would be better than doing it this way (unless you ENJOY spending a couple hundred hours sanding T_T )</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;">I AM -NOT- TAKING COMMISSIONS FOR THESE. NEVER AGAIN. UGH.</span></span><br />
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I was commissioned to make a pair of rather spikey chakrams based on Axel from Kingdom Hearts.<br />
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This is the third "take", as the first one was begin carved in wood, and took waaaay took long, and the second (in which i used this mold) I had casted in pure resin, and the chakrams weighed about 13 lb each and were brittle. Boring out the centers was also taking waaaay too long)<br />
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I sculpted 1/4 of one side of the Chakram to save on casting the cost of the mold rubber. In retrospect its a complete nightmare, and if I was to do this again, I'd sculpt and make a mold of one full side..<br />
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Heres how I went about making the mold a bit, Click for a larger view. <br />
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1- laid out 1/8th of a chakram on matboard, used hot glue and shims to define facets<br />
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2- hotglued some insulation foam into place to use as filler so i wouldn't use up all mah bondo<br />
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3- slopped bondo on there, and used the shims to help guide tools to make facets even.. this is the result after lots of sanding<br />
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4- gold has a habit of making imperfections show, so thought i'd take advantage of it for once.. sprayed it with the gold, and did more cleanup.. figure that fizing it now would prevent having to fix it 16 times over later<br />
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5- glued part onto MDF, put lil putty around edges to keep silicone from getting underneath, then used hot glue and tagboard to build a box around it. seal up ALL crack lest it dribble out<br />
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6- used smoothon sorta-clear 40 silicone rubber on it after applying mold sealer and rubbing off excess (its waxy). crossed fingers that i did it right and waited 16 hours (attempt to save on rubber by adding a couple chunks of insulation foam failed, they floated to the top)<br />
after it cured,<b> this would have been a better time to add layer of plaster as a support</b>!<br />
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7- pulled everything apart and viola! a big rubbery 1.8th of a chakram! woke up fiance by sneaking into bedroom and lobbing it on him <br />
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8-after pouring plaster support structure underneath, i thought I'd try adding some silver here. after spraying light coat of mold release, dusted on some silver aluminum powder that i got from pearl art supply. (think flouring a pan here) used can o' comlressed air to spray excess off. <br />
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I dusted the inside of the mold with aluminum powder.<br />
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I made the "shells" by laying down two layers of fiberglass. Once they cured and i popped them out of the mold, I laid them across a belt sander to remove the excess and flashing. <br />
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Filled the cavity with Great stuff foam, and let it set for a day<br />
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After cutting off some of the excess with an exacto knife, I again took to the belt sander and flattened it out<br />
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Added a flat sheet of fiberglass on top of 1/2 of the chakram segments.<br />
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After pairing off segments and gluing them together I assembled them into a full chakram. <br />
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Beginning main assembly.<br />
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One of the chakrams fully assembled. This needed a lot of sanding work done, as I made a bit of a mess when gluing them together (used fiberglass resin)<br />
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Once assembled, i began the long process of puttying up imperfections and sanding them smooth. <br />
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A WHOOOOOLE lot of puttying, sanding, and puttying again, and the segments are smooth enough to primer. Decided to primer areas that i finished sanding, to keep track of whats done and whats not...<br />
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There were still a bunch of lil' bubbles n' such, so I went back and sprayed the thing down with Kilz, its thick and cakey and fills in holes good. Laid a thin coat of gold so i can see what needs work easier.<br />
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a whole lotta sanding again, working down to 400 grit..<br />
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Laid down Krylon brilliant silver, <br />
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aaand time to paint it, <br />
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After wrapping the grip using the foam taken from a rake handle, one completed chakram! (repeat above for the other one T_T) <br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.fevereon.com/props/bigimages/kh_chakram_4.jpg" /></div>fevhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02541675197778234209noreply@blogger.com11